jenzen deel 2

The Transmission line labirint is made, and glued with cookies.I used BEECH plywood here, as I had some left overs on the shelf. This Beech Plywood is very stiff and heavy! It gives the side panels extra strenght.

The Walnut veneer is glued on the Birch Plywood panels.

Tip/Trick;

Place baking paper between the veneer sheets to avoid clamping together. Wen pressed together some glue excess may flud through the veneer pores. Greasy baking paper avoids this.

In case I can't reach the panels with my clamps, I mostly use a piece of stiff wood and make a "bridge", as can be seen on the left picture. This produces enough

The felt material is placed according to Troels drawings. It is glued and tacked to the panels.

pressure to the panel to be glued.

On my stationary router table I start making the solid wood bracings. Notice I routed them as a pair of 2 pieces at once. This to keep the support of the wood when routed. See arrow in picture. The wooden strips will be cut in the middle as the arrow shows.

After the wooden strips have been cut in the middle and calibrated, I cut them scissor angled and glue them in place. As the thickness is 10mm the rectangular hole becomes 200x75mm again, as stated on the drawings of Troels Gravesen.

Also the bafle panel is slotted on the edges as can be seen above. This assures a perfect fit to the cabinet, and garantee a airtight join. Another advantage of this is, it won't shift during gleuing/clamping.

The rectangular hole is made using my router and a 10mm router bit. I used a Festool aluminium guiding system for this. The rectangular hole is made 20 mm bigger as stated on the drawing of Troels. This because I will insert 10mm solid wood bracings later on. So I routed it 95x220mm.

The bafle panel is being made, and checked for the slot width on the edges. The driver hole is slanted for easy breathing of the large bass driver. This panel has some 40 mm thicknes! The rectangular hole on the bottom of this panel has still to be made.

The only panel missing now is the front panel (bafle). I already placed the internal wiring in the cabinet ,and sanded the edges of the cabs.

I use a guiding strip of plywood in order to get a nice straight router path. The other piece of scrap wood is clamped to the venered panel to avoid splinter when routing. A so called splinter protection.

Now the 2nd side panel can be glued to the cabinet, and the bafle gap is the only remaining open side to the cabinets. As I want the (venered) cabinets to be solid and damage proof on the edges, I made solid walnut bars on the complete cabinets. Resulting in the picture below.

Note that no panel is flush mounted, they are all assembled using slots. See detail picture below. This causes a lot of calculating.